Why – With too many Canadian “must see” places to get to,  I’ve started knocking them off one at a time as time and finances afford.   The highlight of the fall season, apart from the grape harvest (and the fermentation of those grapes), is the changing colour of our forest.   Algonquin Park (3 hours North of Toronto) and the Agawa Canyon north of Sault Ste Marie Ontario have been noted by travel and nature enthusiasts as the best places in the world to see the changing colours.   Algonquin I’ve seen but the Agawa Canyon stood out as a “must see”. 

The Agawa in full colour

Where – The Agawa Canyon is in “the near North” of Ontario 114 miles (180 kms)  North of Sault Ste Marie accessible only by Train unless you can afford a helicopter.   

When – The height of the colour season varies from mid September in the north to early October further south.  We booked our train tickets for October 1 and we were not disappointed.   It is suggested that visitors book ahead during the peak colour season.

The Experience

When I proclaimed a strong desire to go to the Agawa, my friend Rob jumped in  “I’ll go with you”.  We left Ottawa on a nice cool September 30^th  morning with Rob wearing shorts and sandals.  I’m thinking how we’d be seen, you know, two gentlemen with the cute one wearing shorts and me being just a little homophobic. I’m open minded and tolerant but still just a little self conscious.

Our 8 hour drive was interrupted by a couple of stops to check out the locals in Sturgeon Falls where we met a bunch of fishing buddies whose planned day out on Lake Nipissing was canceled – the boat captain was still hung over from the night before.  In Massey,  the tavern didn’t open until 4:00PM and ended up at a local café watching the locals get their drinks without actually asking.  Given we were driving, we couldn’t hang out long at the local spots but the next time around we’re leaving more time for stops in the small but interesting Near North towns such as Mattawa.

Checking in at the hotel left me again wondering how we’d be seen.  Dinner at a fine Italian eatery and we were off to the Casino.  My usual luck!  The guy beside me at the Blackjack table – now he was interesting.  Obviously an Italian shouting out “Madonna” or “Santa Maria” as the cards fell.  Maybe Santa Maria was the patron Saint of gamblers!  Down to his last couple of chips he lamented the possibility of a long walk home.  Take a bus I said; nope, none running that time of night.   The patron Saints saw his plight and slowly he built a stack.  Put three of those red chips in your pocket – cab fare home I said. But  no, he was a gambler and he lost all.  I thought about helping out and driving him home.  Nope, the patron saints were favoring me now – can’t leave the table.

The train left at 8:00AM and by noon we reached the Canyon.  A 2 hour stop-over afforded the opportunity to walk or hike the different trails to take in the major sites.

Walking Trails take us by sights such as this

But of course, the changing forest colours were the highlight.  The return trip gets you back to Sault Ste Marie by late afternoon or early evening.

What You’ll See and Experience Among the many points of interest along the way are the trestles at Bellevue Valley – Mile 19, Montreal River – Mile 92, unparalleled vistas of Lake Superior, the descent into Agawa Canyon, where the train coasts down 500 feet over 12 miles to the floor of the Canyon.

The Montreal River Trestle view from a train car

A well serviced dining car serves breakfast and lunch. Having breakfast as the hills and lakes rolled by was enjoyable.  We shared a table with some fine ladies but felt compelled to hint that although we two gentlemen traveling together  we did have wives and children!  Box lunches are offered to those who wish to have a lunch outdoors in the canyon.  Otherwise visitors can bring their own food and drink but no alcohol. 

Planning Your Trip

Getting There  -  Sault Ste Marie, Ontario is about an 8  hour drive from  Toronto or Ottawa or Thunder Bay.  If you’re in South Western Ontario (Sarnia and Windsor) the trip is about 5 or 6 hours. You can fly into “the Soo” and save the driving.  Check with FlyJazz.ca and BearskinAirlines.com for service information.  We found the trip across the top of Lake Huron and Lake Nipissing to Sault Ste Marie very rewarding and the Algoma region is as beautiful as the Laurentians in Quebec or the Muskoka Lakes of Ontario. 

The Agawa Canyon train departs Sault Ste Marie daily during the fall season and a four hour ride North takes you to the Canyon.  Other trains run periodically from Sault Ste Marie through the Canyon on the way to Hearst, Ontario.  The train trip up to and back from the Canyon spans an entire day.  Therefore, unless you live nearby, plan on staying over the night before your tour and the night of your return.

Where to Stay – A number of moderately priced hotels are available within walking distance of the train  (www.saulttourism.com/tourism/stay/index).

Some Do’s and Don’t – if you suffer motion sickness, do bring some gravol or ginger ale.  Don’t bring booze as it is strictly prohibited unless of course you buy it in the dining car.

How Much Does It Cost?

Transportation to and from Sault Ste Marie varies significantly.  From southern, central and eastern Ontario, budget the cost of 2 or 3 tanks of gas.  If flying in, check with the airlines serving The Soo (Jazz and Bear Skin).

Hotel accommodation shouldn’t set you back much more than $100 per night.

The train tour itself cost us $85 per person and is well worth the price.

Pros

-          The views and colours were absolutely worth the trip.

-          Our stay in Sault Ste Marie was pleasant enough with numerous restaurants to pick from including a host of Italian  eateries.  And in the evening we found the Charity Casino offers table games as well as the less odds predictable slot machines.  We were also entertained at a local bar with an amateur country & western music contest.  There was enough going on to keep us busy.

Cons

-          The train ride winds around the Algoma hills and travels at a leisurely 30 (approximately) miles per hour.  The twists and turns make for an exciting ride but one that may not be as pleasant to those suffering motion sickness.  My traveling companion had spent some time in the bar the night before and felt uncomfortable most of the trip concluding he couldn’t drink beer any more.  Then realized it wasn’t his body rejecting the beer, it was motion sickness.  What a relief!

-          Most of the other passengers were pleasant enough but the mouthy guy sitting in front of us made the trip a little noisier.  Tour guides gave us excellent reports of the sights with “mouthy” providing his own commentary.  We could have moved seats but chose not too.  We can’t prove it but we think the guy lives in a State rather than a Province.

Had It To Do Over Again

I’d spend another day and night in The Soo to allow enough time to visit the Bush Plane museum (www.bushplane.com), get in a round of golf or spend more time hiking the Voyageur Trails (www.voyageurtrail.ca).  There was much more to do than we left time for.